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NEAPOLITAN MOSTACCIOLI – TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CHRISTMAS COOKIES

Neapolitan Mostaccioli are not soft cookies in the American sense, and they are not meant to be crumbly either.

The inside is firm but pleasantly tender, especially after the cookies have rested for a day or two. That is actually when I think they are at their best.

The traditional diamond shape is part of their identity, as is the generous coating of dark chocolate.

And there is one ingredient that really gives them their unmistakable Neapolitan character: pisto, the aromatic spice mixture used in many Christmas desserts from Campania.

If you have never made Mostaccioli at home, don’t let the chocolate coating intimidate you.

The dough itself is very simple, and once the cookies are baked and cooled, dipping them in chocolate is probably the most satisfying part of the whole recipe.

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Neapolitan_Mostaccioli_Recipe

Servings: 20–24 Mostaccioli

Ingredients

For the Mostaccioli

  • 4 cups (500 g) all-purpose flour
  • 1 1/4 cups (250 g) granulated sugar
  • 1/3 cup (40 g) unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 1/2 cup (150 g) honey
  • About 3/4 cup (180 ml) warm water
  • Zest of 1 orange
  • Zest of 1 lemon
  • 1 teaspoon baking ammonia (ammoniaca per dolci) or 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 2 teaspoons pisto spice blend
  • Pinch of salt

For the Pisto Spice Blend

Traditional pisto can sometimes be difficult to find outside Italy. You can make a simple version at home by combining:

  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground star anise
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground coriander

You will need about 2 teaspoons for this recipe.

For the Chocolate Coating

  • 14 oz (400 g) dark chocolate, preferably 60–70% cacao

Instructions

1. Make the Dough

In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, sugar, cocoa powder, pisto, baking ammonia or baking powder, and a pinch of salt.

Add the finely grated orange and lemon zest and mix everything together.

Warm the honey just enough to make it more fluid, then pour it into the dry ingredients.

Begin adding the warm water a little at a time, mixing first with a spoon and then with your hands.

Knead until the dough comes together and becomes smooth and compact.

The dough should be soft enough to roll out without cracking but should not stick to your hands. Depending on the flour, you may need slightly more or less water, so add it gradually.

2. Let the Dough Rest

Shape the dough into a ball and cover it with plastic wrap.

Let it rest at room temperature for about 30 minutes.

This short resting time makes the dough easier to roll and gives the citrus zest and spices time to perfume it.

3. Shape the Mostaccioli

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

Line one or two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Place the dough on a lightly floured work surface and roll it out to about 1/3 inch (8–10 mm) thick.

Don’t make it too thin. Mostaccioli need a little thickness to keep their characteristic texture.

Using a sharp knife or pastry cutter, cut the dough into diamonds about 3–4 inches long.

Transfer them carefully to the prepared baking sheets, leaving a small amount of space between each cookie.

Gather the scraps, gently knead them together, roll them out again, and continue cutting until all the dough has been used.

4. Bake

Bake the Mostaccioli for approximately 10–14 minutes.

Keep an eye on them toward the end of the baking time. Since the dough is already dark from the cocoa, color is not a reliable way to tell when they are ready.

The cookies should be set but still slightly tender in the center.

Avoid baking them for too long or they can become excessively hard once cooled.

Transfer them to a wire rack and let them cool completely before adding the chocolate.

5. Melt the Chocolate

Finely chop the dark chocolate and place it in a heatproof bowl.

Melt it gently over a double boiler, stirring until completely smooth and glossy.

You can also melt the chocolate in the microwave in short 20-second intervals, stirring well between each interval.

6. Coat the Mostaccioli

Once the cookies are completely cool, dip them one at a time into the melted chocolate.

Use two forks to turn each Mostacciolo so that the top, bottom, and sides are completely coated.

Lift the cookie out of the chocolate and allow the excess to drip back into the bowl.

Place it on a sheet of parchment paper.

Repeat with the remaining Mostaccioli.

If the chocolate begins to thicken while you work, warm it gently again.

7. Let Them Set

Leave the chocolate-coated Mostaccioli at room temperature until the chocolate has completely hardened.

Try not to eat all of them immediately.

Mostaccioli are especially good after they have rested for several hours, and many people prefer them the following day when the aromas of honey, citrus and spices have had time to develop.

What Makes Neapolitan Mostaccioli Different?

Despite the similar name, Neapolitan Mostaccioli are very different from the mostaccioli found in other parts of Italy.

The Neapolitan version is traditionally made with cocoa and Christmas spices and is completely covered in chocolate.

The characteristic diamond shape is just as important as the flavor.

Traditional recipes may vary from family to family. Some use honey, some use slightly different proportions of spices, and others have their own closely guarded version of pisto.

That is part of what makes recipes like this so special: there isn’t just one family table in Naples, and there isn’t just one Mostacciolo.

Tips for Perfect Mostaccioli

Don’t roll the dough too thin.
A thickness of about 1/3 inch helps keep the center pleasantly tender.

Watch the baking time carefully.
A few extra minutes can make a noticeable difference once the cookies cool.

Use good dark chocolate.
Mostaccioli themselves are fairly sweet, so dark chocolate creates a much better balance than very sweet milk chocolate.

Give them time to rest.
Their texture and aroma improve after several hours and often become even better the following day.

Don’t worry about baking ammonia.
If you use traditional ammoniaca per dolci, you may notice its strong smell while the cookies are in the oven. This is normal. The smell disappears completely as the cookies cool.

Storage

Keep the Mostaccioli in an airtight container at room temperature.

They will stay good for approximately 2 weeks, making them perfect for preparing ahead of Christmas.

Place parchment paper between layers if you are stacking them to protect the chocolate coating.

Serving Neapolitan Mostaccioli

In Naples, Mostaccioli rarely appear alone.

At Christmas they are usually part of a large tray of traditional sweets, together with Roccocò, Susamielli and Struffoli, ready to be brought to the table when relatives and friends stop by.

Serve them with espresso after dinner, with coffee in the afternoon, or simply steal one from the Christmas tray when nobody is looking.

That last option may actually be the most traditional one.

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