Ciuppìn or Cioppino? Two Fish Soups with a Shared History

Ciuppìn and cioppino are two seafood soups that tell a story of cultural exchange and shared traditions across continents.

Both are deeply rooted in Genoese cooking, but while ciuppìn reflects the simplicity of Ligurian cuisine, cioppino represents the innovation of Italian immigrants in San Francisco.

Let’s explore these two iconic dishes and how they bring the flavors of the sea to life.

The Origin Story

Ciuppìn: Liguria’s Coastal Comfort

In the Ligurian Levant, Ciuppìn was created as a practical way to use small, less desirable fish. This creamy, deeply flavorful soup uses a simple blend of tomatoes, vegetables, and fresh fish, served with crusty bread. The fish is cooked until soft, then mashed into the broth for a smooth texture.

Cioppino: San Francisco’s Iconic Stew

As Ligurian immigrants settled in San Francisco, they adapted Ciuppìn to the ingredients of their new home. Shellfish, crustaceans, and larger cuts of fish turned the simple soup into a luxurious stew. The result is a chunky, hearty dish that remains a centerpiece of the city’s Italian-American cuisine.

Ciuppìn Recipe: Traditional Ligurian Fish Soup

Ingredients (Serves 6)

• 1.5 kg (3.3 lbs) mixed rockfish (e.g., gurnard, red snapper, mullet, bream)
• 300 g (10 oz) peeled tomatoes
• 100 ml (½ cup) dry white wine
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 carrot, finely chopped
• ½ celery stalk, finely chopped
• 1 handful fresh parsley, chopped
• 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• Salt and black pepper, to taste
• 6 slices crusty bread, toasted

Method

1. Clean the Fish: Gut and wash the fish, separating firm-fleshed varieties from tender ones.
2. Prepare the Base: In a large pot, sauté onion, carrot, celery, garlic, and parsley in olive oil over medium-high heat until softened.
3. Deglaze and Add Tomatoes: Add white wine, allowing it to evaporate, then stir in peeled tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Cook for 5 minutes.
4. Cook the Fish: Add the firm fish first, followed by the tender varieties. Pour in hot water to just cover the fish. Simmer for 20 minutes.
5. Mash the Fish: Remove the fish, mash the flesh, and strain it back into the pot. Stir well to achieve a creamy consistency.
6. Serve: Ladle the soup into bowls, garnish with parsley, and serve with toasted bread.

Cioppino Recipe: San Francisco Seafood Stew

Ingredients (Serves 6)

• 500 g (1.1 lbs) cod fillets, cut into chunks
• 250 g (8 oz) shrimp, cleaned
• 250 g (8 oz) mussels, cleaned
• 250 g (8 oz) clams, cleaned
• 600 g (21 oz) peeled tomatoes
• 125 g (4.4 oz) shallots, thinly sliced
• 50 g (1.8 oz) onion, finely chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 200 ml (¾ cup) white wine
• Fresh herbs (rosemary, thyme, bay leaf)
• 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• Salt and dried chili pepper, to taste

Method

1. Prepare the Shellfish: Steam mussels and clams in a covered pot with a splash of water until they open. Strain and reserve the liquid. Discard unopened shells.
2. Sauté Aromatics: In a large saucepan, heat olive oil and sauté shallots and onion until golden. Add garlic and cook for 1 minute. Deglaze with white wine.
3. Build the Base: Add peeled tomatoes and herbs. Cook for 10 minutes over medium heat.
4. Add Cod: Add cod fillets and simmer for 20–25 minutes, adding shellfish liquid as needed to maintain a saucy consistency.
5. Finish with Shellfish: Add shrimp, mussels, and clams. Cook for 2–3 minutes until shrimp are pink.
6. Serve: Garnish with chili pepper and fresh herbs. Serve hot with crusty bread or crostini.

Key Differences

Which One to Choose?

• If you love creamy soups that celebrate the simplicity of fish, Ciuppìn is your dish.
• If you prefer robust, chunky stews with a variety of seafood, opt for Cioppino.